ECHMIATSIN - A RELIGIOUS CENTRE
OF ARMENIANS
The city of Echmiatsin is a historical centre of Armenian apostolic church which is a half an hour drive from Yerevan. On the way we passed numerous clubs, bars, casinos and even Zvartnots airport. We were told that the authorities had moved all the casinos from the centre to the suburb of the city and as a result all these entertainment establishments turned out to be on the way to Echmiatsin.
Approaching the apostolic church, all my illusions related to gigantic sizes of this “super centre” fail to the ground and collapsed. We found ourselves in front of an ordinary church of small sizes which was even smaller than Taza-Pir.
In addition to the apostolic church, the city also has a monastery with the residence of Catholicos, cathedral and theological educational institutions. The monastery complex includes refectory, hotel, house of Catholicos, school, stone reservoir (well) and other buildings. And numerous residential houses and public buildings were erected in the soviet times. A temple Hripsime, domical basilica Gayane and church Shoghakat are also situated in Echmiatsin. There is a museum in the cathedral with the collection of medieval arts and crafts.
Having observed the course of service held by Armenians and having taken a few pictures, we went out into the yard to wait for Nursun who was intending to shoot the whole ceremony. She went out of the church after half an hour and we hurried to our cars so as to reach Yerevan as soon as possible and dine. Before getting into the car, Elmir bought a small souvenir form some old man. It was a small wooden pomegranate hanging on a rope. I learnt from that man that pomegranates are the symbol of Armenia.
OH VERNISAZH,
OH VERNISAZH…
After dinner it was suggested that we visit Vernisazh. No, it’s not a gallery, it’s a shopping centre in the open air where one can buy all sorts of things. As it turns out at the end of the last century, somewhere in the midst of 80s, a group of enthusiastic artists, mostly composed of students from Yerevan Artistic-theatrical institute, organized a small exhibition of their paintings in the city park after Saryan.
Anyone could hardly imagine that in two or three years the action of those artists would become so popular and the exhibition would grow into one of the sightseeings of Yerevan. In the course of time, Yerevan Vernisazh became a quite popular place for the residents and guests of the city. In addition to the paintings and items of art one can buy and sell all sorts of things here: from nails to flats and even exchange currency. Throughout its existence, Yerevan Vernisazh underwent many changes and even changed its location. In 1997 it once again returned to its former location in the park after Saryan where, as it was planned many years ago, the paintings of professional artists, as well as amateurs’ would be exhibited there.
While we were going there, we had a feeling of seeing something like Baku Arbat, where the works of artists and amateurs are exhibited and where one can buy souvenirs. But as it turned out we were mistaken. Yerevan Vernisazh was 500 times bigger in size than Baku Arbat. It took us half of the day to pass each store.
Elmir decided that upon his return to his homeland he would suggest that Baku authorities provide an area for a similar market in the open air. I supported that idea.
- This market will right away be turned into a second-hand market. And rags and other clothes will be sold in place of items of art. Local authorities were hardly able to remove all unhygienic second-hand markets at the beginning of 90s, and now you want to revive the tradition?
Elmir had no intention to give in.
- If they really wish, they will do their best not to turn the market into a second-hand one. Anyone wishing to see a second-hand market can simply go to the airport. But in the market, that I suggest, only paintings, souvenirs, carpets and rugs, as well as books and other sorts of small items will be sold.
As we were having a long dispute concerning the fate of yet not opened Vernisazh in Baku, we didn’t notice how we had reached the silver row. Since silver is my weakness, I resolved to stand before the first store and began studying the rings.
- Hey, boys, are you from Baku?
I was not at all surprised to hear that question. After numerous TV news, speeches in live broadcasting and newspaper materials, we were recognized by everybody and even greeted us on the streets, the Internet clubs, shops. And now the “Lord of the Rings” greeted us.
- Yeah, we are from Baku, - I replied and came up closer to him.
That was a grey-haired man of average age. Scrutinizing us with interest he said:
- I am from Baku, too …
To meet a former Baku refugee in Yerevan is the same as meeting a refugee from Armenia in Baku. His eyes seemed to be filled with sadness and a bit curiosity.
Coming up closer to me so as people would not hear us, he asked me:
- I used to live on Samed Vurgun street, near the courthouse. Tell me, how is life there?
Tell? But how? What about? I understood that he was one of the accidental victims of this war, by a twist of fate he found himself standing before this store and now had to earn his living in summer heat and in winter cold.
- You know… Now new buildings are being constructed in Baku. All old houses are being pulled down. Most probably, your own house has already been pulled down. But in general, the city is developing and flourishing…. You will not recognize your city if go and see it.
He sadly smiled.
- You say if I go and see it? By the way, my name’s Sergey... Look, what about Lenin’s Palace, Commerce Palace, Molokan park? Are they still “alive”, are they in their places?
- Yes. All of them are untouched. Now Lenin’s palace is the palace named after Heidar Aliyev. And the Commerce Palace has changed beyond recognition. But I don’t even remember how it looked before in your times. Perhaps very boring and grey, - I smiled.
- No. The Commerce Palace was not at all boring and grey in our times. What are you talking about? It was the merriest, brightest place in our city. Please excuse me for using the word “our”. I mean the period when I was living.
It looks like a kind of justification, I laughed. That’s all right. No problem.
- I didn’t understand what really happened, - he went on. Suddenly I opened my eyes and saw that I was here.
- Before this counter?
We could even crack jokes and I did like it.
- Yes, that’s right, before this counter,- answered Sergey. Travelling in the space.
He pointed to his shelves before him:
- Choose something as a present.
His suggestion came in handy. I was going to buy something but I didn’t know what exactly. There were all sorts of things in that market that I had difficulty choosing any. And now I had a chance of buying something from the former Baku resident.
I chose quite a good ring, rather heavy but not vulgar-looking. I guessed that it might cost not more than 40-50 dollars (according to approximate Baku prices). Sergey took the ring from me and very carefully put it into the box. I took my wallet out of my pocket and asked:
- How much do I have to pay for this ring?
- Nothing. I told you to choose a present, didn’t I?
- No. I can’t take it.
But I think I said something foolish. He might think that I didn’t want to get a present from an Armenian. But in fact I did want to pay for it.
- I know that this ring is expensive and I can’t take it for nothing. Besides, I am going to give it to my friend in Baku, as a present.
- And I can’t sell it to my compatriot, especially, such a rare person. Not every day one can meet an Azerbaijanian in Yerevan.
Georgi was standing next to me and from the expression of his face I could see that he was about to burst into tears. He told me in my ear not to resist. He said that “it was not accepted in Armenia to refuse a present”.
- Sergey, in that case take at least some symbolic money from me, - I suggested.
- OK. I don’t mind. One thousand drams.
It was more than two dollars. And it was funny.
- Sergey, it is too little, too little.
- I never bargain with my customers so long. You deprive me of the opportunity to present you something?
Reluctantly I couldn’t but agree. I paid him one thousand drams and put the box into my pocket. I felt uncomfortable. I am not that sort of person who sentimentalizes and repeats the accepted phrases, like “It is not the nations but the politicians are to blame for everything”. Moreover, I don’t believe in the innocence of nations. The single thing I was capable of doing was to say “thank you” and shake my hand with him. He might have understood how I was feeling at that moment and by shaking my hand he replied: “Not at all. You are welcome.”
When we walked away, Georgi remarked:
- You have already become a real traitor. You received a present from an Armenian.
- That’s true. If it were not the Karabakh problem, I would not have been presented with this ring. As if I was an important person. Bodyguards, radio transmitters, cars with blackout windows are everywhere. You know I will never become a president. It is so boring …
Georgi grinned.
- What are international organizations doing which make money on conflicts? And what about our political establishments which thanks to the conflict pockets millions of money? Our officials travel all over the world, stay at five-star hotels, devour an exotic food, as if they are settling the conflict. Don’t you think that the settlement of the conflict is not beneficial in the first place for our authorities, including NGOs which are engaged in peacemaking activities?
- You might be right, Georgi. But I believe in the sincerity of Ilham Aliyev. He will become the hero for ever and ever centuries. He will immortalize his name if he is through with this war. The whole Azerbaijan people and he himself do realize it. And what do you think of Kocharyan?
- Generally, I don’t want to blame anybody or have discussion about it. Simply I don’t believe in the process of negotiations without the involvement and participation of citizens in it. And stop looking at me like that. You are also a citizen and have come to Armenia …
At this very moment, I heard Elmir’s indignant voice:
- Why is it impossible to find a good cigarette holder in this Vernisazh?
HOSPITALITY
OF ALEKSEY MANVELYAN
When we first met Aleksey in the hotel where we held our first meeting with the students, he had invited us to his place. Only today on the last day of our stay in Yerevan, we had time to accept his invitation.
As it turned out, it was impossible to lay a large enough table for all of us (Elmir, two bodyguards, Aleksey, two of his children and I) in the small hostel room where he lived with his son and daughter. That’s why it was decided to use the next-door room in which the refugees from Baku, Bella, a lady of sixty years old and her daughter Natasha were living.
Bella and Manvelyan did their best to lay a decent table. There were lots of dishes on the table in that “squalid” room. Trout, kyabab, salads and, certainly, an Armenian cognac which was mainly drunk by Manvelyan and Elmir.
Five minutes later, I already knew that Bella used to live near Conservatory on Malaya Morskaya street. Her daughter Natasha even remembered Baku and understood Azerbaijan a little. Above all, she spent 15 years in that city. Talking of Aleksey’s son Yura and daughter Alla, I am still impressed by their level of education and upbringing. In spite of the fact that refugees have very a sever fate and live under terrible conditions, they were able to receive an excellent education. Aleksey still sings Azerbaijanian songs and complains that his children prefer pop music.
The evening was still going on …
I don’t feel like telling you about the things we were talking about, what songs and jokes we were telling. Let it remain a little secret. I don’t have a desire to tell you about the recollections of Aleksey Manvelyan, Bella, Natalya and Aleksey’s children who became refugees without even realizing where and why their parents were going. But today they do realize.
I can say only one thing – there was no hatred inside that small but very bright room where Karabakh status was not discussed. We preferred to discuss the status of man who is forgotten in our goddamned region…
BACK HOME
Back to our families, friends, slogans and accusations. Roads and frontiers of South Caucasus are as not serious, funny and difficult to overcome as the nations populating our region. Wherever you go in South Caucasus, all roads lead to Hell. And we did manage to pollute every plot of this land!
Alekper Aliyev
Baku-Yerevan-Baku
December 10-19, 2006
Day.az
